Again, try to 'split the lines' with the jaws of your caliper or with the faces of a micrometer. Measure the diameters of the taper at each of your marks on the shank. For practical purposes, to 'get you into the ball park', the hypotenuse is going to be good enough. This will give you the 'true length' or 'hypotenuse' of a right triangle, with the shorter leg being the one along the centerline of the tapered shank. If your eyesight is good, try to split the marker lines with the 'nibs' used for inside measurements on the caliper. Using a fine-point 'Sharpie' or similar, make two lines on the shank of the taper, and measure how far apart they are using something like a vernier (or dial or digital) caliper. What I would suggest is you try to measure the male taper on the dead center. However, regarding the tailstock spindle taper, some lathe manufacturers used the Jarno taper- either as a standard feature in their designs (such as Seneca Falls in the USA, if my memory serves my properly), or on 'special order'. I cannot offer any clues as to who made it. Your lathe looks like a solidly built little bench lathe. Welcome to our forum and to our community. When I originally priced it I thought I had a 5C collet closer and drill chuck for tailstock but I found.
3 jaw chuck with 2 sets of jaws, Steady rest, Aloris style tool post with some tool holders.
Very nice complete older lathe with all the original change gears. $1,250 (Dubois pa)Ītlas TH-36-10 metal cutting lathe. Selling due to my Father past and will be taking.
#Vintage atlas lathe tv
Its a TV 54 Which stands for timken bearings and vertical motor 54" bed. Works as it should and comes with some tooling. Had this lathe for the past 20 years and still use it today.